If there's one thing to look for in a good pair of men's shoes, it's a Goodyear welt. It's how almost every shoe we sell is made, and it's the main reason a good pair can last for decades.
How does a Goodyear welt work?
In a Goodyear-welted shoe, the sole isn't glued or stitched straight to the upper. Instead:
- The upper is pulled over the last and fixed to the insole, which has a raised rib underneath.
- A strip of leather, the welt, is stitched to the upper and the insole rib all the way round.
- The space inside the welt is filled, often with cork, which moulds to your foot over time.
- The outsole is stitched to the welt, not to the upper.
Because the sole is attached to the welt, it can be cut away and replaced without touching the upper. That's what makes welted shoes resoleable.
Where does it come from?
Welted shoes were once stitched entirely by hand. In 1869 the American Charles Goodyear Jr., son of the inventor of vulcanised rubber, developed a machine to do the welt stitching, and the method was perfected in the factories of Northampton. It's still slow: a welted shoe involves around 200 operations and can take several weeks.
Why is a Goodyear-welted shoe better?
- It can be resoled, many times, by the factory or a good cobbler.
- It's more water-resistant, because there's no direct path for water between the sole and the upper.
- It's more comfortable over time, as the cork filling moulds to your foot.
- It's stronger. It holds its shape and stands up to years of wear.
How else are shoes made?
Cemented shoes have the sole glued on. They're light and cheap but usually can't be resoled. Blake-stitched shoes have the sole stitched straight through to the inside; they're sleek and flexible but less water-resistant and harder to resole. Our shoe glossary covers the others.
Tip: you can often spot a welt by the line of stitching running round the top edge of the sole. Look for it, and ask if you're not sure.
See our formal shoes, almost all of them Goodyear welted.
Not sure which way to go? Call or WhatsApp us on +44 7468 872241, or email sales@edwardandjames.co.uk. Tell us what you wear now and what it's for, and we'll give you a straight answer.